Monthly Archives: February 2012

New Route Wednesdays: Tinker Toys 5.7 Rock Canyon, UT

#4 Camalot in a Quarzite Crack

Parker places his new #4 on this mellow entry-level trad climb. Photo by Kristopher Orr

For the aspiring trad climber, quartzite can be your best friend. Lots of edges and jugs while you do your placements, and a large variety of options for your pro. Rock Canyon has some really great trad climbs if it’s something you’re interested in trying out. One of my first ever trad leads was this super mellow 5.7 called Tinker Toys. It’s only about 35′ high, can easily be top-roped, and provides some fun options for getting creative with your protection. You could easily protect the whole thing with passive, or mix it up with some microcams or standard tri-camming units. It starts with a hand crack that is riddled with ample face-holds, which makes it a really mellow first trad lead because you have tons of options for your stance when it does come time to place that first nut or cam. There’s also a great place to place a #4 Camalot, which is always a treat when you’re climbing short easy pitches. Connect with your buddy who has a rack and try your hand on your first trad lead on Tinker Toys. Plus there’s a super steep .10b sport route just around the arete, so your climbing options are numerous.

http://mountainproject.com/v/tinker-toys/105798732

Hand Crack Cruxes

Parker moves through the crux of this mellow line. Photo by Kristopher Orr

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Interview with photographer George Bruce Wilson

After seeing Bruce’s photos around and bumping into him at the local gym, I decided it was time to find out what made him tick. I caught up with him and had the opportunity to ask him a few questions.

Tell us about yourself?

I’m Bruce Wilson,  I was born in SLC, UT.  I’m 25 years old and married to my climbing partner (which I recommend).  I’d say that I’m a pretty passionate person…..depends on what it is.  I love candle light dinners, bear skin blankets, leather bound books, just kidding I love the outdoors: Camping, Hiking, Climbing, Canyoneering,  Snowboarding.  Although winter sports are cool, the cold just isn’t my thing.  Which means come winter time I try to spend most of my outdoor time in the St. George area.  I’m passionate about art, photography specifically.  I think most of us who think are artists, that can’t paint or draw,  just becoming photographers ha ha.

What got you into climbing photography?
I remember when I wanted to become a photographer.  I think I was 19 or 20 at the time and I would always go to the movies and before the movies would start I would see these Nikon commercials for the nikon D40.  So I bought one.  Also at the same time I was getting into climbing and ran into Boone Speed up American Fork canyon.  He was shooting pics of Jared Roth and Mike Call on Speedball V9.  I talked to him a little bit and saw some of his pics.  I thought it was pretty cool and that’s when I wanted to become and adventure/outdoor photographer.
Where in the world would you most like to shoot?
That’s pretty tough to say.  I start a battle in my head and think would it be about the landscapes,  the climbs or climbers, or would I just like to go there to climb for my self? hmmmm……Some where in Europe.  Spain…..Greece.  Somewhere super aesthetic.  Climbs need to look super epic.  The landscape needs the same criteria….I don’t know.
What is your favorite Picture and why?
That’s pretty tough to say.  Usually when I get around to taking a decent photo  I’ll get all excited about it.  I finish it all up in post production and the next day when I look at it, I end up hating my work and thinking what I shoulda/coulda done better.
I like this picture because we were in Joe’s Valley for a week.  It was late October so the temps should have been nice.  To us it seemed a little warm so after our morning session we’d chill all afternoon and wait till night when the temps were ideal to climb.  This pic is of my buddy James Simmons at 1 am climbing an unnamed V9.  Everyone there was climbing hard and having tons of fun.
What has helped you grow as a photographer?
I think realizing that no matter how good or bad I think I might be, There is always room to progress and to push my self to become a better photographer.  Try new things, different lighting, angles, etc.  There’s no such thing as “good enough”

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Shut down.

Sometime I get these ideas in my head of routes to climb. The problem is, it always seems like a good idea in my mind but it doesn’t always go the way I hope it will. When I was 13 I had a black diamond poster of Ari on Big Guy in Indian Creek. It was the coolest photo. He was jamming a huge cam into this offwidth. It looked like a good time so I thought I would try. Little did I know it would be a whole lot harder than I thought. I should have listen to Tanner’s comments but I’m stubborn. Well I gave it a go, luckily I was able to aid a HUGE portion of it and was able to get to the top to clean it. But with the cuts on my ankles healing, I’m in the market to make myself an offwidth climbing trainer, and well, actually climb big guy. A project has begun.

This picture is right after I cheated through a fingers section, had some fun on hands and fist jams, and then couldn’t jam a knee. This is where the french free was about to begin.

Desert Nights

One of my favorite parts of desert climbing is spending the night out under the stars. The sand still holding warmth from the day, the monolithic free standing pillars holding up the endless night sky, and the anticipation of the next mornings climbs all work together to make the desert one of the best places to climb.

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The Headache (5.10+)

After a successful weekend of climbing in Red Rocks,  we made our way back north to St. George. With the weather in the low 50′s we decided it was definitely too cold to climb  and all agreed to go for a hike in Zions.  However, we couldn’t allow ourselves to go to Zions with a full rack in the car and not climb, so our plans quickly changed and Curtis  looked up a route for us to climb. The climb he found was a three pitch classic called The Headache.  Now I tend to steer clear of any routes whose name entails bodily harm or pain (bloody fingers comes to mind)  but as Curtis read the description of the route as “perfect hands”  I was sold. We had Nicole drop us off at the mouth of the Mount Carmel tunnel where we hiked through a foot of snow to the base of the climb. Sure enough, a perfect splitter. The climb itself was 3 pitches of perfect jams, and one of the funnest I have ever done.  A highlight for me was peeing off the ledge on pitch 2 as the tour bus stopped to take photos of the climbers. Finishing the climb fairly quickly, we decided to hitchhike back to Springdale and save Nicole a trip up the canyon. As car after car drove by, I explained to Curtis that no one wants to pick up bums and we would need to distinguish ourselves as climbers in order to catch a ride. He didn’t believe me so I bet him that if I put on a sling with some quick draws, we would get a ride within the next three cars.  As soon as I  pulled out quick draws, a family in a white minivan with Alabama plates pulled over and let us in. The whole ride down the canyon the mother asked us in amazement, “you was really up on them walls?”Overall we had a great trip and realized that climbing in snow is not so bad after all.  However I’m excited to go back in the spring and climb this one again when I can feel my fingers.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-headache/105718186

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From The Hard Drive

Good friend Forrest Shearer on the ridge line of Mount Superior a couple seasons ago. He is an amazing snowboarder/mountaineer and all around good guy. Not to mention the fact that he pushes more green initiatives through his riding than almost any other rider out there. Watch for him in TGR’s new video project entitled “Further”. Check out the Trailer bellow:

http://www.tetongravity.com/further/embed-further.html

New Route Wednesdays: Plan F 5.11- Red Rocks, NV

This was our first time down to Red Rocks. We arrived on a holiday weekend with thousands of people lining the roads of the park. We thought the crags would be over loaded with people, but to our surprise we found this little gem of a wall known as Ragged Edges for one of it’s more popular climbs. The climb immediately lookers left of “Ragged Edges” was “Plan F”, a 5.11- meandering crack with a slabby top out. The rock, if you haven’t been yet, is a hard sandstone that lends its self very nicely to climbing. There are so many good areas here that it was almost over whelming. If you get a chance go and hit this crag. “Plan F” was a nice route, but you can’t go to this wall with out climbing “Ragged Edges” which goes at 5.8. Enjoy!

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/plan-f/105733169

Rumbling Bald, North Carolina

“C’mon dude, if we leave after I get out of the hospital, we’ll be there by midnight.  That gives us all Saturday to climb,” says Nelson over the phone.  I can learn alot from Nelly.  After a solid week of surgery rotation for medical school (which entails waking up at about 3:30 am and working till 7:00 pm) he is still itching to get outside and climb.  So it was that we decided to hit-up Rumbling Bald last weekend.

Climbing in the East is a different story altogether.  There is very little public land, so camping can be interesting.  If you want to dirtbag it, you better do so guerilla style.  Nelly and I choose to pull over on any good private property we can find and throw our bags out to the side of the car.  I’m sure we are going to wake up one morning to a cocked shotgun and a welcoming “get yur ass’s off my property.”  Nothing like southern hospitality.  (sidenote, there really is nothing like Southern hospitality).

Rumbling Bald is amazing.  Definitely some of the best granite I have ever climbed.  We were able to hop on most of the classics, including my new favorite Shredded Wheat.  Shredded Wheat is a consistent, solid, finger-crack.  There is a very distinctive crux where I can only fit in pinkeys and half of the pad of my ring finger.  The protection is great though.  Ps. this picture is totally stolen from Google.  In the slide show you can see our pictures on Shredded Wheat.  I just felt that our pictures didn’t do justice to Shredded Wheat.  Therefore, we stole from this goon.  P.P.S. If you are the goon in this picture, sorry for calling you a goon.  I mean nothing by it.  Rad picture.

Also, we did the second pitch of Fruit Loops which made me feel like a kid again.  Nothing like offwidth and chimney climbing to remind you of climbing around the walls in your house.  I always tried to make it to my room without touching the carpet.  The doorways were the hardest.

Sidenote- the day was surreal.  It was 40′s, sunny, and snowing the whole time.   Somehow the snow never stuck, never put moisture on the rock, and we felt warm the whole time.  The granite gods were good to us.

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New Route Wednesdays: Mexican Crack 5.10a


Little Cottonwood Canyon is home to some of the best granite slab climbing around. The thing about this area is that all the routes are fairly stout compared to other Wasatch areas. When you get a chance this next summer, go check this one out. It has an awkward start to an awesome crack! Enjoy!

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/mexican-crack/105740603

Dirtbag Father Figure

ImageGrowing up in a family of climbers is an interesting thing. Most families tell stories of embarrassing moments such as saying something inappropriate to a friend, falling down the stairs, or just doing something dumb. I grew up with my older brothers recounting stories of how I froze up on a 5.7 and almost started crying, but in all fairness to me I was only 12.

ImageI started climbing when I was around 11 because of my dad. It would be a lie to say I don’t get a lot of my climbing style from him. My love for slab, a sense of shame if I was ever caught bouldering, and an almost reverence for City of Rocks were all genetically inherited. I personally feel lucky because of it, plus its nice to have a full rack for free. He is a bit older now and doesn’t climb past 5.9 much anymore but he is still out moving over rock, and making fun of me when I take slab falls. The only hard part is knowing I’ll never be as good of a dirtbag as he once was.

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